Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Miriam Haskell Jewelry and Chinese Cloisonne Dragon Beads

eBay vendor eastwooddenver found a splendid example of a branch coral and cloisonne necklace likely to be from the Miriam Haskell studio in the late 1930s - early 1940s.






My Miriam Haskell Mystery post from last November features a bracelet  and two brooches that match this necklace design.

Close inspection of the cloisonne dragon beads seems to delmonstrate the work of two different artisans, showing:
1) White and black eyes, five toes, and evenly applied scales
2) Black eyes, four toes, rather sloppy application of the scales

Another post is in the works about the mysterious artisan who put only four toes on his dragons.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Puzzling Evidence - The Dragon of Lao Tian Li 老天利, continued

Ebay vendor bigpelican has on offer a fine example of one of Lao Tian Li's dragons - see previous post on this topic here.  (Photos posted with permission)
Note the liveliness of the dragon and the detail in its rendering.

Fine detail in the feet, and background clouds of notable neatness and precision.

Signature engraving - I don't know what the FI inside the diamond signifies.  The characters, of course, read from right to left - "Lao Tian Li Made."

What does all this have to do with beads?  To be continued...

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Puzzling Evidence - Some Lingering Questions About Cloisonne from Taiwan

Two renowned cloisonné artists from Taiwan are Kuo Ming-chiao (1917-2014) and his son, Robert Kuo.

Kuo Ming-chiao spent the first part of his artistic career as a painter and instructor.  He recounts how he became fascinated by cloisonné in this 1990 Taiwan Today interview:

Kuo Ming-chiao has dedicated himself to the creation of cloisonne art for 30 years. He began his artistic career, however, as a painter, and his works were internationally exhibited and acclaimed as masterpieces of Chinese painting. He received many awards, including those presented in Vietnam, Australia and the United States.
 His painting career came to an abrupt and unexpected halt in a moment's inspiration which changed his artistic path. While travelling in Europe to attend an exhibition of his paintings in
1960, he had what he described as an "electrifying experience." In a marketplace near Cologne, West Germany, he was overwhelmed by the splendor of the cloisonne art on display. He abandoned his plans to continue his continental tour, choosing instead to remain in the small German town to learn the art of cloisonne.

Robert Kuo’s online biography tells how he spent over a decade, from his teenage years to his late 20s, working in his father’s atelier to learn the process of cloisonné manufacture.

Cloisonne with the distinctive Kuo look shows up in many objects – vases, bowls, plates, coasters, napkin rings, salt and pepper sets, desk sets, buttons, bangles, bracelets, beads, paperweights, snuff bottles…


What puzzles me is how this was all accomplished.  Certainly there had to be other artisans in the factory besides Kuo senior and son – people to manufacture the brass shapes, produce the cloison wire, apply the designs, manage the sourcing and stocking of the enamels and polishing grits, supervise the kiln, manage work flow and ensure proper work station furnishing, machines, and tools, etc. etc.  Cloisonne is a very labor-intensive process requiring practice and skill.

If one developed a sudden interest in cloisonné manufacture, surely the most effective way to start production would be to either take over the management of an existing atelier, or at least commission special work by them?  Why reinvent the wheel?  Were the resulting designs a coordinated effort between traditional artisans and Kuo artistic innovation? 

As is well known, Taiwan became the country of refuge for mainland Chinese who fled the Communist party victorious in the civil war.  Wikipedia relates:

On October 1, 1949, Mao Zedong proclaimed the People's Republic of China with its capital at Beiping, which was renamed Beijing. Chiang Kai-shek and approximately 2 million Nationalist Chinese retreated from mainland China to the island of Taiwan in December…

Note the date Oct 1, 1949.  On eBay I found this little cloisonné egg box, with its original label intact. 
Unfortunately I am illiterate in Chinese, but the numbers “49 11 1” made me wonder if they represent the date of November 1, 1949, and if there was any connection between the migration of Nationalists to Taiwan and the founding of the cloisonné factory that produced this egg (instead of, say, commemorative of a birthday or holiday or something).  The style of cloisonné – transparent cobalt enamel, mixed rose and transparent enamels in the flowers and butterflies, small circles as background fill – is not at all like mainland work.  Is this an actual Kuo design, a Kuo-style copy, or an example of a general Taiwanese cloisonné style that developed after 1949 by artisans fleeing the mainland?

At least one cloisonné artisan liked to use a semicircle of wire loops to represent vegetation or foliage – you can trace this motif from the small bottle pendant through this Kuo cloisonné egg.  

Overall, these designs depart from decades-long stereotypes produced by other Chinese workshops, as if the artist were following his/her own vision to represent traditional Chinese themes. 
Ruyi motif on pre-WWII vase, on JingFa vase post-1956, and Yun Kang vase from Taiwan.  Note the completely different neck and collar wire motifs in the Taiwan vase.

Note the granite-like counter enamel on the base, and the splashy enamel application that is also seen in Taiwan cloisonne link bracelets.

Then there is the mysterious Yun Kang factory.  
Vase pictures by eBay vendor gnsales1075
Pieces display all the characteristics of Kuo cloisonné, with a distinctive granite-like counter enamel (counter enamel is applied to the reverse sides of the metal form to provide equal tension against the decorative surface enamels, so that the metal is not warped as the glassy enamel contracts during melting and cooling).  Is this a predecessor to the Kuo label?

Evidence such as this Mementos and Artifacts blog account dates the small Kuo-style vases and condiment sets to the late 1970s.
Jar inscription on base reads "Taipei Taiwan 1975."  Note similarity of Ruyi-style collar motifs in Jar and vase.  

Vase on left courtesy of eBay vendor gottoget123.  These vases all have a Kuo logo on the base. The viewer will no doubt have already noticed their similarity to the Yun Kang vase pictured above.
The various Kuo trademarks appear throughout the 1970s and 1980s.

Later cloisonné pieces by Robert Kuo became more abstract, larger, and architecturally imposing - pieces of sculpture rather than decorative bric-a-brac.

During the 1990s, as mainland China’s economy became more export-oriented and rural populations flocked to urban factory jobs, a large proportion of Taiwan factories of all varieties moved their production facilities to the mainland.  It is hard not to draw a parallel between this account from Taiwan Review of a glass factory and the trajectory of the Kuo cloisonné atelier:

Since starting work in his teens at this factory, which his father established in 1960, Hsu—who is now in his 70s—has seen the rise and fall of the local industry. He recalls that in the 1970s and 1980s, business was so good that the factory was backordered for a year. But like most other labor-intensive industries in Taiwan, glassware manufacturing lost its competitive edge as land and labor costs increased. “Factories either moved elsewhere or closed down,” Hsu says, recalling that there were still about 3,000 craftsmen working in 50 glass factories in the Zhunan area 10 years ago, but that the numbers have declined to around 100 workers and a handful of factories now. In fact, Kuo Tai has also cut the number of its employees from 60 to 15 and once considered moving to mainland China. 


Finally, what to make of items like these?  Are they the last gasp, so to speak, produced in the final days of a factory staffed by artisans on the verge of retirement and with production declining and outsourced elsewhere?


UPDATE: More puzzling evidence -

Yun Kang or Kuo style small plate.  Notice style of enamels and counter enamels, heart-like motifs at the rim.
Another Yun Kang or Kuo style plate.
Unusual 13" lamp that appears to be composed of two small vases soldered atop one another.  Note the similarity in enamel and motifs to the plates above.  Courtesy of eBay vendor chris638brad.


UPDATE: A 5-page chapter, with photos, about the Kuo cloisonne factory appears in the 1977 book Cloisonné Extraordinaire by W. F. Alexander and Donald K. Gerber:

"A comparative newcomer to cloisonné manufacture is Taiwan.  The factory in the beautiful country side near Taipei has been in operation since 1972.  The most noteworthy thing about Taiwan cloisonné us that they have not copied any motifs of any kind.  Even the borders are different."

UPDATE: Some mysterious cloisonné egg jars:

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Puzzling Evidence - What About Cloisonne Beads from Taiwan? (Part 2)


How do I know these beads were made in Taiwan?


The evidence of these sample sets seems conclusive, considering the other appearances of the circle K trademark stamp as discussed in Part 1 of this series on Taiwan cloisonné. 

Australian eBay vendor bewitchingitems has an example of a designer necklace by Sandra David that she has owned since the 1980s, which is consistent with the 1978-1987 time frame of the “Kloison K” trademark of Robert Kuo.

While it’s possible the beads were manufactured in Beverly Hills, it seems more likely that the Kuo atelier in Taipei, Taiwan was the production site for the beads, simply from an economics point of view.

Are there two different styles in the beads? 

Beads in the style of the boxed sets

Beads in the style the boxed sets and of other Kuo cloisonne items.  The capsule-shaped piece is a barrel clasp.
There is an evident similarity between this Kuo bowl and the design of the large bead in the photo above.
Kuo or no?



Are all the beads from the same workshop?  Different artisans? Evolving style? A different workshop owned by a competitor?  Puzzling evidence.
What about items like these?  Kuo or no?  

UPDATE DEC 2025: Question: Were these items made in Taiwan, or in California at Robert Kuo's atelier? Anybody know?


Friday, February 28, 2014

Puzzling Evidence - What About Cloisonne Beads from Taiwan? (Part 1)

After some time spent watching online auction sales for cloisonné, I noticed a number of stylistic trends in the offerings, one of which is so distinctive as to really stand out from the pack.  Some of the tell-tale features include:
  •   a splashy, painterly technique of blending bright enamels
  •  hot orange and red enamels
  •  transparent enamels, especially a beautiful rose and a teal green/blue
  •  jewel-toned motifs on a cream background
  • innovative interpretations of traditional Chinese motifs, including a distinctive dove-like bird
  •  tight, energetic curves
  • swirling, flowing lines on butterflies, foliage
  •  tiny circles employed as background motifs, unlike the little clouds and spirals used in mainland cloisonné

Pieces found in online auctions sometimes have an intact trademark stamp – a circle enclosing a capital letter “K”, accompanied by “Made in Taiwan” or “Made in Republic of China” or a string of Chinese characters either alongside or as a surrounding circle.
Vendor stated, "The bracelet on the left is stamped Made In Taiwan.  The bracelet on the right is stamped Made In Republic of China."

On page 73 of Arthur and Grace Chu’s book Oriental Cloisonné and Other Enamels, copyright 1975, this photo and caption appear:
Published in 1975.  "Recent import from Taiwan."
A distinctive bracelet of chain-linked rectangles seems to share a similar style:
The round pieces are buttons.

One eBay vendor described one of these bangles as “German modernist from the 1950s,” but a Google images search on Scholtz & Lammel (German cloisonne design from the 1950s-60s) reveals only a very slight resemblance between the German bracelets and those from Taiwan – i.e., the German logo is an “S” inside a circle, and the bracelets are often made in linked cloisonné rectangles. 

An Internet search revealed a very similar trademark registered in 1978 for “Kloison K” by Robert Kuo in Beverly Hills, California.  

The logo also appears in other forms (note the similarity to the circle "K" with Chinese characters on the bangles at the start of this post):




Following the bread crumbs, I discovered Robert Kuo’s work.  From his website biography:

Born in Beijing, he moved with his family to Taiwan in 1947. Kuo grew up in an artistic environment. His father, an art professor and Chinese watercolor painter, started a cloisonne atelier where Robert became an apprentice at age fifteen. Although he never engaged in formal art studies, Kuo gained technical expertise and learned about decorative tradition from "hands on" training. As he mastered each of the steps involved in cloisonne from preparing copper bases to enameling and firing the kilns, Kuo absorbed all the basics that were to serve him throughout his artistic career.
While pursuing his studies in Taipei, Kuo assisted his father in the creation of a cloisonne studio. A visit to the United States persuaded the young artist/entrepreneur that the American environment would benefit him, both personally and professionally. In 1973, he immigrated to the United States and opened a studio for cloisonne in Beverly Hills. Kuo cultivated a clientele that appreciated the way he "opened up" Chinese tradition. Utilizing the influences of Art Noueau and Art Deco, Kuo introduced new shapes, finishes, and objects to cloisonne.

So what does this have to do with beads?


To be continued…

UPDATE:  Found an interesting tidbit from Taiwan Today, an article dated 9/24/1990 from the Taiwan Journal about Robert Kuo's father, Kuo Ming-chiao.  The early bracelets resemble "German Modernist" cloisonne work because they were, in fact, inspired by German artistry, not traditional Chinese cloisonne?  Puzzling evidence...
Kuo Ming-chiao has dedicated himself to the creation of
cloisonne art for 30 years. He began his artistic career, however, as
a painter, and his works were internationally exhibited and acclaimed
as masterpieces of Chinese painting. He received many awards,
including those presented in Vietnam, Australia and the United
States.
        His painting career came to an abrupt and unexpected halt in a
moment's inspiration which changed his artistic path. While
travelling in Europe to attend an exhibition of his paintings in
1960, he had what he described as an "electrifying experience." In a
marketplace near Cologne, West Germany, he was overwhelmed by the
splendor of the cloisonne art on display. He abandoned his plans to
continue his continental tour, choosing instead to remain in the
small German town to learn the art of cloisonne.